Thursday, August 9, 2012

Last week in Imlil

REALLY crazy that I am writing what is probably going to be my last abroad post for a while… I have tried to live up my last week in Imlil as best as possible. Here’s the general summary-

Monday- Got back from Marrakech mid day.  I was lucky with the taxis~~ I think I (finally…) have it down… a little too late though.  Anyway when I got home I worked on the grant that I have been doing for EFA and kind of just relaxed.  I was still in a shopping mood from Marrakech and still had some things to get, so I took a trip to town.  Imlil is more expensive than RAK, which I was noooot expecting.  I went to “shop” without any money on purpose.  I wanted to see prices and think about things.  I only have a very small amount of cash left (no ATMS in Imlil) I have to save some of it to pay Rachid and get back to Marrakech.  A car from the Kasbah is 700 dirhams (outrageous) but there are other options.  I spoke to Rachid and Lahcen, and they both know taxi drivers who would bring me to the airport for less money (Rachid’s friend is 350 and Lahcen’s is 200… I knew I liked Lahecen).  Even if those don’t work out then I can go to the taxi stand and get one and pay for all of six of the places in the cab (~240 dirhams) and maybe give him extra money to have him bring me straight to the airport instead of changing taxis in Marrakech.  ANYWAY I figured that I needed to keep at least 400 dirhams to sort everything out, which only left me with ~200 for the rest of the gifts and food for the week… tight budget, but not impossible.  I saw my one friend who gives me a tashleheit word-a-day when I walk up to the Kasbah, but his prices were really steep in terms of what I was looking for… I felt bad, but knew I would not be buying anything from him.

The other guys at the bigger shop in the center of town scooped me in as I was poking at windows.  They brought me upstairs and showed me rugs (eventhough I told them I was not interested…).  Long story short I looked at a TON of rugs, and finally they found one that got me.  It is basically a runner, but when I asked how much it would be he said 1000 dirhams and I gasped out loud “absolutely not- no way, but thank you”.  They said they could literally cut it in half (better for me & my luggage) which would also cut the price in half… I said that 500 was still too much, but they were pretty set on their offer.  I said I would think about it, but they were pretty forceful. One brother was better than the other, but unfortunately I was dealing with the worse one.  I went back downstairs to look at the poufs (things that I actually needed).  The nice brother said that he would sell me two poufs and the rug for 700 dirhams… tempting.  I said I had no money (I didn’t) and that I would come back… They were reluctant to let me leave, but finally they did.

Then I met Lahcen and we bought veggies in town.  I also saw a family from the pool on Saturday and Sunday.  Funny, and I should have been friendly to them because I could have gotten a free & comfortable ride to Imlil (maybe).  They didn’t recognize me though.  I told Lahcen and he thought it was funny- especially because we both agreed that the child was annoying.

Then I went home and had a DELIGHTFUL dinner.  I was really crazy about deciding about the rug.  I told them that I had USD so they said they would take them instead of dirhams.  I also told them that I was going to Asni tomorrow (to meet Latifa & see the EFA house), where there is an ATM, so I said that I would take out cash if need be.  I spent a lot of time thinking about this deal and decided that I would give them the 47 USD that I had, and add the last 200 dirham that I had (~65 USD).  Then I decided that was too much, so I decided 100 dirham was the FINAL OFFER.  I wouldn’t get cash in Asni and I wouldn’t buy anything from them if they did not accept my offer.  My window shopping turned out to be a bad idea because now every shopkeeper in Imlil wants the “little money” that I have.  I went home a different route after veggie shopping because I wanted to avoid them. 

I met these two girls on my other route home.  They were really friendly and nice, but I really just wanted to go home.  They invited me to walk with them to the waterfall and I said “ooo that sounds great, but I have work to do- maybe tomorrow?” and they said “what time?” haha… oi. 

I made it home and did some more work THEN made my delicious dinner.  I had the leftovers from Café de la Poste, with some green beans and onions that I bought with Lahcen.  I was VERY happy.  The potatoes were better than Friday night… So good.

Tuesday I met with Latifa in Asni.  It is a bigger town than Imlil, but it really wasn’t anything special.  I was lucky to get a taxi driver who was going to Marrakech to drop me off at Asni… very lucky.  I got there early and walked around a little, but there was not a lot to see. Here are the pictures of nothing…




Latifa at EFA house



Terrace of EFA house- it was really REALLY nice, and I definitely could have stayed there as a volunteer, but taking the tour & interviewing past volunteers made me very thankful for the situation that I found myself in this summer... 

After the tour and interview we ran errands (for Latifa).  She invited me to her house (after telling me how hard it is to get a cab…) and I felt really bad, but I was not sure exactly what we would do there, and I was VERY anxious to get a cab going back to Imlil (I also only had 10 dirhams because that’s all it is supposed to cost, but it would be much more expensive from her house).  I think she understood my worry, so she didn’t push the invite.  Errands took a while though- she didn’t even get that much the shopkeepers were just pretty lazy (she said “tired”).   I got a cab right away (because Latifa helped).  We said our good-byes and I was on my way.  I sat next to a woman who had a mole on her face with a hair coming out of it (but had a BIG smile).  She had her arm around me the entire time… it was very hot in the cab, so her armpit was very wet on my body—so excited to do laundry (I bet my mom is too…). 

I got back from Asni and the rug shopkeepers were very excited to see me.  I didn’t lie to them (they were worried that there would be no cash in the ATM, but there was), I just told them that I did not get cash, so I had to go home and count my money and I’d be back.  They gave me an hour and said that they would take “English things too”.  That gave me an idea.  I looked around my room for things that I was going to leave anyway, and brought them three items.  1-my shampoo & conditioner 2- a girls’ sweater and 3-an army jacket.  Erica from the trek left extra clothes with me, but there is NO way that I could bring everything back, so I decided to “donate” them to the shop keeper.  Not sure if this is haram (forbidden) or not, but I think she will never find out… inshaallah…  I also did not bring a single dirham with me.  I decided to give them only 45 USD and the “English stuff” final offer.   My plan of attack was to pretend that my friend (Lahcen)’s mother makes boucherouite (the style of rug that I wanted) rugs and I did not need to buy from the store because she offered to make one for me and ship it (90% true- I just didn't ask Lahcen about this yet).  I was also going to say that I got a better offer for the poufs at a different store, so I did not need to buy these things from him- basically pretending that I was doing him a favor… It was HARD.  Also I found the “English things” that he wanted kind of weird… he GRABBED the shampoo & conditioner- totally loved it.  He took the sweater for his wife, and then tried on the (female military) jacket FOR HIMSELF! It looked a little silly, but of course I was like “omg that looks GREAT it fits perfectly [it did] blah blah” It was really weird, but whatever worked! It was actually the hardest bargaining I’ve had to do here, but I DID IT!! There were raised voices (me), phone calls to the boucherouite weaver (him), and only one unhappy camper (him) in the end.  I literally skipped all the way back to the house- I was so so happy & DONE WITH SHOPPING.  Two poufs and a perfect rug for my room in the Diva Den (what I call the house that I am living in next year…) for 47 USD, AND I got rid of some extra junk… very happy girl.  The rest of the day I was just happy.  I also made a creation for dinner.  I used some PB and tomatoes and pureed them together in an attempt to make a tomato/pb curry sauce… not really effective and produced WAY too much, but I obviously ate it anyway…

Wednesday
MESSY ROOM!

I woke up early every day this week… I am not sure why.  Wednesday I woek up early (probably because I was anxious to pack…) and I started to pack because I realized that there is no way that I will be able to fit everything into my two suitcases.  I accumulated SO MUCH STUFF the past 3 months, starting to re-think the rug/pouf purchases & Marrakech shopping spree… I googled “how to fit everything into your suitcase” or something, and they told me to roll all of my clothes up.  I then remembered a FB picture that little Ali McKeigue posted when she was packing up to leave Denmark, and she did the rolling method too, SO I decided to try it out… It worked MARVELOUSLY and I got essentially all of my clothes into my smaller suitcase~~ mash’allaaaaah!!!!! S/O to al-pal & google for helping me with that!!  Once I did that, I was a little less nervous about packing, so I went up to the Kasbah to do work.  Lahchen invited me to break the fast with the Kasbah on Wednesday, but I kind of forgot that he told me to fast, so I ate real breakfast and a luna bar… When I saw him he asked if I was fasting, and it was only then that I remembered.  WOOPS.  He said that I could still come break the fast with them at 7:30 (earlier and earlier every day!!).  I was excited and left the Kasbah early to shower.  Going up to the Kasbah twice in one day is TOUGH, but I made the trip because I like those guys.  I was almost late, but was not. 

Unfortunately, “domage fromage” as Lahcen says,  I brought my camera, but forgot my battery… I took mental images though.  There were A LOT of croissants & bread at the table.  It was not a break fast for guests at the Kasbah- just the workers, so it wasn’t quite “Kasbah quality”… it’s hard to explain, but it wasn’t DELICIOUS, it was just delicious- if that makes sense? We did not have harira… we had the cream of wheat soup, which I like just as much.  I ate SO much shebekiya they thought I was crazy.  Also when they were clearing it away I snatched an extra piece.  They ALL stopped in the middle to pray. It was amazing- they just threw a sheet down (we were upstairs outside) and all prayed together.  I didn’t stare, but it looked really cool.  Some people who were staying at the hotel were staring because I was sitting at the table and they were all praying- I probably would have been staring too.  After they prayed it was back to busness… SO MUCH food- hard boiled eggs and kiri (which I like much more than vache qui rit…) and baguettes.  Pain au choclate (I got the non-chocolate half though).  Fresh carrot juice (kind of weird) and delicious mango & pineapple juice (the bottled juice here is much better than back home…).  It was total overload.  Once we were done, everyone started to talk about tajine and they seemed to be joking that a tajine was coming out, which is why I grabbed the extra cookie, but THEN a tajine magically appeared.  They call Brahim (one of the cook)’s brother Tajine, so I really thought they were joking about him, but nope- we shared huge meat tajine… It is really hard to break fast when you didn’t fast during the day… I was REALLY stuffed at the end.  I joked that I was going to roll down to my house, but I think the joke got lost in translation…

Here are some pix that I took of my friends at the Kasbah on Thursday... 

the cooks!

Lahcen in the office

I was a liiiittle nervous to go up to the Kasbah right before sunset because the path between the Kasbah and my house is very steep and the woods- it’s worse than the walk through town.. I brought my flashlight and gave myself a pep-talk while I was walking there.  I also paid very close attention to the path that I took so I would remember it when I returned in the pitch black… Luckily there were not a lot of guests at the Kasbah, so Lahcen could leave earlier than normal.  He walked me back, which was great, but it still was not easy… We talked a lot about the Kasbah and the people running it.  I feel really bad for the workers there, Lahcen especially.  They really are SO underappreciated, it’s INSANE.  I feel terrible, soooo...

 IF any of you wants an AMAZING mountain vacation (essentially what I have been doing for the past ~5 weeks…) I HIGHLY suggest coming to Imlil.  I will put you in touch with Lahcen and he will show you a great time.  

He had to cut the conversation short because he had to go pray again… I went upstairs to the roof to digest and look at the stars.  It was particularly starry Wednesday night, which was amazing.  I really cannot believe how quickly the time passed… I went back downstairs and continued to pack.  This is the most prepared for a trip I have ever been in my entire life—changed woman…. But really I have trip anxiety and I NEEDED everything to fit into my bag.  (as of 9:22 pm Thursday, Aug 9th- I am essentially done packing and EVERYTHING FITS!!!!).

Thursday was a LOT of running around.  I really cannot remember the last time I felt this pressed for time- it was DEFINITELY back in the States, and probably Fall semester.  It was kind of exhilarating, but I will for sure miss the laid-back Moroccan lifestyle.  Part of the pace of my day can be contributed to my first coffee in WEEKS.  I ran out of espresso maybe 2 weeks ago (maybe more), so I just stopped having coffee- really different affect on your body after you haven’t had it for a while….

I said all of the good-byes that I needed to (except for Rachid & Lahcen bc they will carry my luggage to a taxi for me tomorrow morning).  I did a lot of (unintentional) exploring.  I HAD to avoid the two souvenir shops on the way to the Kasbah because I promised that I would buy things from them, but I just couldn’t, so I had to take the back route to the Kasbah.  It is thorny, but I was happy that I knew how to get there that way.  Finally on the last walk down from the Kasbah, Lahcen nicely explained the situation, so there in no bad blood- thank goodness.  I ran into the two girls that I met the other day.  I forgot to mention that they called me VERY late one night and texted too, and they also knocked on my door one evening.  Today they went to the house when I wasn't there, and Rachid called me- he was very confused... haha.  In trying to avoid the shop owners, I ran into the girls & told them that I would come visit in an hour or so, but I didn't :(  

I had my last solo dinner on the roof (leftovers, but FRESH PASTA), and finished packing.  I checked my flight luggage policy, and I thiiiink I can only check one bag on the plane, so I have to pay for one.  Also- at least ONE of my bags are over the weight limit- I am SURE of it, so there is another charge, but who cares!!! I am coming home!!!!! This is not going to be my last blog post.  I will be doing a lot of thinking and reflecting on the plane ride back, and I will do one last post sometime next week.  

SEE YOU SOON!



Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Weekend in Marrakech

FRIDAY
I had a really amazing weekend in Marrakech.  I woke up kind of early ~8 to get a taxi.  I think I woke up too early because I waited a looooooooong time for a taxi.  It was very frustrating, but as I have learned, everything always works out.  I even asked a tour group if I could have a ride with them, but they did not understand what I was asking I don’t think? ANYWAY… I finally snuck a ride to Asni (the cab drivers usually prefer to take me straight to Marrakech, but it is more time effective to go to Asni and then RAK).  Once I was in Asni, I got a cab right away to Marrakech, and it was only 15 dirhams, and it’s usually ~20 or 30.  My cab prices have gotten lower everytime I have taken them.  Anyway- I finally made it to Marrakech, and the driver dropped us off in the area of the medina, but I was not totally sure where I was.  I used my sense of direction and headed towards the Koutoubia Mosque.  Then I knew where I was, but I didn’t know where to go exactly, so I went to KFC and asked the man (and snuck a sip of my water--- it is INCREDIBLY hot in Marrakech~~ so so so hot... like walking thru fire.  At that moment it was 115 degrees—at least!).  He said I should get a cab, so reluctantly, I did.  True to Marrakechi form, the cab driver wanted to charge me 20 dirhams, and I said thanks but no thanks and continued to walk.  He came up next to me and basically said “get in, it’s too hot for you to walk there”.  I did, and he turned the meter on.  It was great to get to Aniko’s apartment, but it was not particularly cool inside… I opened all the windows and sat on the couch/my bed.  I turned the TV on and watched the Olympics as I cooled down. 

Then I went to La Belle Vie (Carrefour) to do some grocery shopping.  I was dying for cheese and crackers so I bought some & grapes, and enjoyed a small happy hour when I got back to Aniko’s.  I also got a lot of Tango cookies and Aicha jelly… Consider yourself lucky if you get some when I get back.  I was conservative in my purchasing in anticipation of packing next week. 

My friend Erica (from the trek to Toubkal) was supposed to meet up with me, but she basically never surfaced.  She was on a tour group so I think she had things to do with them, and then our phones never connected.  I waited until about 7 to see if she would appear, but she didn’t SO I went to the souk by myself.  First actually I looked for this Lebanese restaurant that I had heard about and wanted to eat at.  I was walking around in the dark, and I stopped to ask someone and he lead the way.  NOBODY was out (it was just before sundown) it was eerie, but cool.  I found the restaurant, but it was closed for Ramadan.  I knew my second choice would be open, so I went there on the way to the souk and asked if I needed to make a reservation for one.  She said no.  Lol.

I pleasantly walked to the souk.  There were some tourists out, and some straggler Moroccans, but the streets were pretty desolate.  I passed a café/ice cream place, and saw this painting. 


If I were to get any Simo Sadis paraphanalia, this would be it.  I asked if I could take a picture, and the waiter agreed.  I took a few, and then thanked him.  Teasingly, he asked me if I knew who that was.  I said “OF COURSE” or something, (I wish I knew how to say "fucking duh" in Arabic) it was still funny.

The call to prayer sounded as I walked to the souk, and as I got closer the streets became more crowded.  Mom said that a New York Times article called the jmaa el-fnaa “magical” at night during Ramadan, but I would have to disagree.  It was pretty normal except for these pop-up restaurants with workers begging you to come inside and break the fast with them.  I didn’t make it very far into the medina because it was really crowded and there were a TON of motor bikes, which I hate.  Also I think I picked the wrong street to go down because there were a looooot of Moroccan families walking in the OPPOSITE direction as me… I turned around and left.  I left the medina completely to go to dinner.  I wasn’t really feeling it on Friday night I guess.  I think it was because I didn’t totally know what I wanted to get or where I was going.  Better luck tomorrow.

I went back to Café de la Poste and the hostess immediately lead me to a table for two with only one place setting.  I smiled and thanked her.  I have never been OUT to dinner alone- maybe lunch, but not dinner, and DEFINITELY not at a place as fancy as this.  I had already scoped out the menu the week before in Imlil (procrastinating cooking for myself) so I kind of already knew what I wanted.  Someone brought over a delicious bread basket and I ordered the cheapest glass of white wine.  I also got a calamari salad with carmelized pears and the skewers with potatos au gratin.  It was DIVINE.  I really enjoyed listening to my neighbors conversations and just being by myself.  I probably won’t do this for a while now (because I am coming home- I will have a lot of dinner dates, and we will all eat together EVERY NIGHT at the Diva Den), but it was pleasant and necessary.  I saved half of my entrée because I was thinking of the week ahead.  The man next to me was complaining about the heat, and I realized only then that it was actually INCREDIBLY hot still- even though it was late at night.  There are spritzers coming from ceilings all over this city (like the entrance to the W Hotel in Union Square), but I kind of found them weird in the outdoor dining space… Anyway I paid the rather large bill and then happily walked home. 

Earlier in the day, a woman who’s name I forget—the famous belly dancer who is staying at Aniko’s apartment--- IDK if I mentioned this earlier, but Nitran (is her name- I remembered) is staying in Aniko’s apartment while she is in India, and apparently she is very well-known on the belly dance sphere or whatever you want to call it.  She came back in the middle of the day (surprised to see me) and showed me the air conditioning etc.  I was happy, but it only barely worked.  Aniko has every single pirated DVD in the country I SWARE.  They’re in English & in French, but very disorganized.  I picked “Bad Teacher” to watch as I fell asleep.  I set my alarm and passed out almost immediately.

SATURDAY

I woke up at 9 am and made myself a delicious egg with bread and cheese from happy hour on Friday.  I ate it and got ready for the POOL.  I put on sunscreen and my bathing suit and got ready to go.  I was very conflicted as to how I should approach going to the pool at the hotel that my mom and I stayed at in April.  I decided that, in order to get the utmost relaxation, I should give in and pay the 450 dirhams (~50 USD) to go to the pool legally.  The Four Seasons cost 800 dirhams (~100 USD), so Le Meredien was a bargain.  I walked right into the hotel like I owned the place.  I wanted to check and see if the pool was crowded- if it was (it wasn’t) then I would not pay for it.  Then I went up to the desk and told the lady that I wanted to use the pool.  She said “okayy…” as if “okay- go to the pool then, duh”.  I then realized that I should have just snuck in, but I was in too deep at this point.  I clarified that I was not currently staying at this hotel and she finally understood.  I paid and got my “lunch ticket”.  I was VERY happy at the pool.  I read a lot of US Weeklys and the book that I HAVE to finish before I leave Maroc. 

At around 2 pm I went to lunch.  I was expecting a specific pool-goers menu, but to my surprise, my (very nice) waiter told me that I could have whatever I wanted.  He left me to think, and came back with a juice cocktail (SO good).  I hesitantly ordered a chicken caeser and a cheeseburger (thinking that he was going to stop me) and he nodded and went to place the order.  He came back with bread and butter.  HEAVEN.  The chicken ceaser was SO good, and totally what I wanted.  The burger was decent, and the fries were great.  I could not open my jar of Dijon mustard, which was embarrassing, but my awesome waiter helped me. (I had to call him over).  BTW I also got a diet coke AND water with a lot of ice cubes.  When I finished he asked me what I wanted for DESSERT!!! I really wanted to order something, but I really was wayyyy too full.  I asked if I could come back later, and he said of course.  I really felt like I was in an alternate universe (forgetting that I had actually paid 50 bucks for this…). 

Back to the pool to relax.  There was one annoying family there.  Well the daughter was LOUD and bratty, but the parents were alright I guess (remember them for my next blog post…).  Lounging lounging… SO nice.  I decided that I would come back tomorrow, but not pay.  I was supposed to meet Angela, a former EFA volunteer, at 6:30 for dinner, so around 4 I went back to the, now deserted, restaurant to claim my dessert.  I thought that I wouldn’t get it, but my friend popped up and asked what I wanted.  I had already looked at the dessert menu, so I was prepared.  I asked for the fruit salad with orange sorbet.  He brought it out in a jiffy.  I asked if I could eat it by the pool, and he said yes.  I REALLY enjoyed that.  Lounged till 5:30 then took a shower in the spa.  Then left to go meet Angela.  The consierge asked if I wanted a cab, but I said that I would walk a little bit (because I didn’t want to pay 20 dirhams).  He let me go and I was on my way.  BTW I am proud to say that every time that I took a cab in Marrakech, I got the driver to agree to use the meter~ go me!

I was early (quelle surprise!!) to meet Angela, so I sat at the post office and took some HAZY pix. 




Angela and I walked around the Medina a little but we didn’t buy anything.  We became hungry so we went to this place called Earth Café~ it is vegitarian/vegan, but it was good.  I got something that is hard to describe, but I have pictures.  It was like veggies (pumpkin, spinach & pears) and GOAT CHEESE wrapped in filo dough.  It was SO good.  It was BIIIIG, but I obv ate the whole thing.  We also got carrot ginger orange juice which was great as well.



After dinner we walked around a little more, but still didn’t buy anything.  It was okay though because we agreed to go shopping on Sunday.  Angela walked me home (on the way to her apartment), which was very nice of her.  Aniko said that Angela is the only other person that is allowed in her house besides me so I gave her a little tour.  It started to get very hot in the house for me, so I was kind of happy when she left because I could change and rinse off. 

The air condition broke during the day.  I think I wasn’t supposed to keep it on the whole day, but I did- woops & sorry.  HOW was I supposed to know? Anyway I am not even thinking about it anymore, but it was not a very good night.  I kept my windows and doors open, but it was still 100 degrees outside.  I had a hard time falling asleep, and once I DID actually fall asleep, my darling mother called my Moroccan cell phone (~1:30 am my time).  I don’t really remember the conversation, but I do remember her saying “we are at a BBQ at Ellen’s house” and I remember myself thinking, “I do not care”.  Mean, but honest.  I also thought about complaining how hot I was, but there is absolutely nothing she could have done, so I just groggily told her that today was good and she got the hint. She called because I was out all day and my e-mails didn’t go through I guess.  Anyway I was awake and hot again.  I knew that the belly dancer was away for the weekend and I thought that her AC might have been working still, so I got up to move to her room.  I went to open the door, but it was totally stuck.  This had happened before so I knew it was okay, but I really wanted to get out and couldn’t.  Instead of freaking out and making myself hotter, I decided to go back to my bed and suck it up- I would have more energy and patience to open the broken door in the morning.  Good day, bad night.

SUNDAY

Another lovely day in Marrakech.  It was significantly cooler when I woke up, so I was happy.  I ate breakfast on the terrace and then went back to the hotel.  I snuck in.  I wasn’t nervous, but wasn’t as relaxed as Saturday.  I stayed there until about 3, went home and showered then met Angela at 4 or 430.  We wanted to go to the artisanal market, but realized that it is closed on Sundays when we got there.  It was okay though because I was finally READY for Medina shopping.  I bought SO much stuff.  I can’t say most of it, but I did get gifts for myself too.  I am so excited to go home and give everyone their gifts.  Angela and I are veryyy different shoppers.  I hoped that my shopping style would have broken her out of her shopping shell, but it didn’t.  I got much more than she did.  My Arabic helped us get good deals.  I am very happy with the shopping day. 

After shopping, we went to a touristy place called café de France in Djemaa El Fna (the main square in the medina).  We spoke a lot about EFA and ate great (relative term) pizza.  We also got some nice pix…

We did a liiiitle more (unnecessary) shopping after dinner.  I went to the bakery to get shebekiya (I am actually OBSESSED with it and am getting a little nervous to come back to the shebekiya-less United States).  I got 10 dirhams worth, but because it was a nice bakery- it was muuuch less than normal.  I tried to save some for later.  Luckily, Angela wanted ice cream, so that took my mind off the shebekiya… I am still not used to the lack of lines in this country, so when the 7th person cut me I finally made a face and the ice cream server quickly tended to me.  The ice cream was good, but not Scoop du Jour or John’s… We walked home from there. 

Around sundown during Ramadan, the streets leading towards Koutoubia mosque are closed and only pedestrians and people on those stupid motorbikes can get through.  SO MANY people come to the mosque to pray.  There are definitely people inside, but theres not enough space (in the biggest mosque in Marrakech) that people have to pray from outside.  It is crazy, but cool.  Also the lack of cars in the streets (kind of like NY for the next few weekends, right?) makes walking home GREAT.  It is so quiet and peaceful.  You notice it once you turn the corner past the mosque.  It’s amazing. 



I walked back with Angela, but she didn’t come upstairs this time.  I was SO happy when I got back into the apartment- it was COOL! So nice.  I definitely could have slept inside, but I decided to sleep on the terrace because it was even cooler.  I had a GREAT night sleep (slept all the way through, and was woken by my alarm~~ I usually wake up before it).  Very happy end to a happy weekend.   


Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Last day(s) in Rabat 7/29&30

Initially, I was planning to leave on Sunday around 11:45 to get to Marrakech by 4:05, but something came over me and I texted Rachid.  I wanted to see if I would be able to get a taxi from Marrakech to Imlil at 4:00, and he said no, but I could sleep at Aniko's house and come back early the next morning.  Great plan EXCEPT I forgot Aniko's key (the ONE thing that I forgot...), so I haddd to stay in Rabat for the day-- I was very happy.

Because I was supposed to be leaving, the family had already decided to go to Al Jadida for the rest of the weekend (Monday is a holiday~~ when King Sadis came to the throne).  I told them not to change their plans because of me (Simo & Fatima would still be there, so I would have fun and be fed...).  Sunday was a lazy Sunday.  Unfortunately, because I thought I would be "traveling" I ate breakfast in the morning (rheif & REALLY HOT tea... I burnt my tongue reallllll bad) so I didn't totally fast- thats all i ate during the day though.  We sat around a lot while everyone packed for Al Jadida.  Imane and I snuck out to get friendship bracelets. Because she lost hers on the ride the night before, I told her that I would buy her another one and get one for myself too, and explained the concept of a friendship bracelet.  We also got one for Fatima.  Then we went back home and shortly after 3/5 of the Mansours left for Al Jadida.  It was a sad good-bye, but really more of a "see you later" than before, which is weird.  Imane said that I can watch TV with Simo now, and directed me to the couch... thank you Imane.  We watched the soccer game~ GO MOROCCO.  It was Morocco vs. Japan.  Japan is good, and the ENTIRE Moroccan team is fasting, so Japan won at the end. I think it's good that the whole team is fasting- team camaraderie.  Simo fell asleep during the game, but I stayed awake the whole time.  After we went to the train station to make sure the times of the trains were the same every day, and then got more cake for iftaar.

Simo wanted to "jog" before eating, so he went out for like 10 minutes with a friend, and I watched more Olympics.  Before we knew it- the muezzin was calling everyone to pray.  We FEASTED again... lounged and continued to eat.  Then we watched a movie on TV called "Awake" or something.  Jessica Alba, Terrence Howard & Hayden Christensen... Simo said that he had already seen it, but I hadn't.  It was in English with Arabic sub-titles.  WHO KNEW that we had this type of TV in the house.  I asked Simo if this was a new channel that came with the new TV, but he said no that his family just prefers deuxem-- the Moroccan channel.  My semester would have been muuuuuch different had I known of this "movie channel"...

After the movie ended we went to La Grande Terrace (where I spent a lot of time writing my ISP in May).  It was SO crowded... every single table was taken (there are well over 60 tables outside, and even more inside).  We found ONE miraculously, but I could never even IMAGINE it getting this crowded.  So cray.  I got a DC and Simo got a coffee.  We talked A LOT, and about serious things.  The two words he did not know that came up in our conversation were "abortion & resurrection"- he kept on asking me to remind him of them throughout the night.  He also doesn't believe in evolution and does not think that homosexuals should be able to get married because- "what if everyone marries the same sex? It's the end of society".  We didn't ARGUE at any point, but we definitely had a lotttt of differences in beliefs (duh.).  It is also interesting because he said that all of the points of conflict in America that we are dealing with today (abortion, gun control, same sex marriage etc) are not really issues in Morocco because it is a Muslim state, and most of these issues are just accepted because everyone shares the same faith.  Imagine if EVERYONE in America shared the same religious beliefs--  I am sure a lot of these issues would not be issues anymore.

The TV at the café was showing images of Rabat and a lot of horses and decorated officers in the street.  On our way to the café, we noticed a lot of people gathering around the street, but nothing was happening.  Simo said that people do this sometimes, and that they're stupid and followers.  Turns out he was WRONG and something really was going on.  We scurried to Mo V.  My Jack Rogers were REALLY killing me at this point, but I tried my best.  There were marching bands performing in the street.  They were military marching bands, so the Army went and then the Navy.  It was SO fun! I was really happy.  There were kids dancing in the street.  The conductor (Simo did not understand his job) called one of the most dancey kids to dance WITH the band, but when he approached, a guard picked him up and returned him to his mother (his back was facing the conductor, so he didn't realize that he was allowed).  It was so fun- everyone was happy and singing along.  I only recognized one marching band song.  The conductor took requests too and there was a TV camera there.  I have been meaning to look up that footage... Then we went home and had a VERY spicy tagine-- it hurt my tongue because of the burn from the morning, but it was still great.  I like the dynamic between me, Simo & Fatima... much more laid back-- not that the Mansours aren't laid back... I just think Imane adds some tension sometimes... ha ha.

Sunday I woke up EARLY because I had to get back to Imlil for real.  I took the 9:45 train.  I woke Simo up to say goodbye, which was funny.  I sat in a different place in the train, and it was MUCH more comfortable than before.  There was AC and the seats were better.  I had to ask someone if I was sitting in first class because it was so comfortable.  She laughed and said no.  I cried A LOT on the ride back... not sure why exactly, or why I have turned into a humongous baby here, but I was just sad to leave for good I guess (or at least with no return in the near future).

I had the seats to myself for a portion of the trip until 3 BIG woman, definitely from a village, took over my train car.  They were LOUD.  There was one VERY cute curly-haired child with them who was also cute, but incredibly loud as well.  I really didn't mind because I had my iPod and was coming off a GREAT weekend, but the old me would have been pissed.. definitely.  One of them was not fasting which I thought was interesting.  The kid sat on my lap a little, and her mom would yell at her for doing nothing, but then they were best friends again five minutes later.  The ladies gave me two seats (mine and the one across from me to put my feet up) but they completely took over the rest of the car.  One was lying on the floor and the other two were lying on their two respective seats.  It was crazy, but cool too... gettin cozy for the four hour train ride.  One of them woke up at a station that I had never heard of and asked me to read the sign.  It was in Arabic and French so I tried to pronounce the stop.  She knew where we were right away, but was obviously illiterate.  Very interesting...

The trip was not bat at all... I slept a little bit and then we were there! Kinda... Again, SO HOT in Marrakech.  I went to McDonalds for no reason.  I don't regret it, but it wasn't awesome.  I got chicken nuggets and DC.  I used one of my coupons from my semester abroad, and it was exactly the right price.  There was a sign in the "restaurant" saying that only non-Muslims and children can eat inside during the day.  I thought that was pretty crazy.  There's a significant portion of Muslims who do not fast for legitimate reasons, so who was McDonalds to tell that they couldn't eat there because of there religion? I want to do more research on this...

Then I went to the taxi stand.  It was ~1 pm, but I was the only one at the stand.  I waited a lonnngggg time, and literally did not have cash to pay for the entire cab for myself (I had a little, but then I wouldn't have been able to EAT the next week, orrr get back to Marrakech the next weekend...) I started to freak out a liiiittle bit, but then three shining angles came and were going to a town in the same area as Imlil... The taxi driver said "you are lucky!!" I am...

Got back to Imlil easily and then didn't do anything for the rest of the day besides catch up on emails and social media because I didn't have it (and honestly didn't miss it!!!) all weekend...

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Saturday, July 28th: Fasting for Ramadan

            We woke up pretty late (late according to how early I have been waking up here so far, but not late in terms of Ramadan timing).  We lounged a lot and did not eat breakfast! I wasn’t hungry, but I don’t think the Mansours believed me.  I asked Imane to come out and go shopping with me, but she was a little weird about it.  I waited around a while but we weren’t doing anything.  I asked her again if she wanted to, and she said yes, but that Simo would get mad.  I was confused because usually if Imane and Fatima do something with me then it is fine with the fam, but Imane was pretty insistant otherwise.  She even asked her mom and dad and they said that it was fine, so I was very confused why she couldn’t go.  Finally something came over her and she agreed, so we were off. 
We went down MO V and saw all of the flags and Moroccan pride.  My first purchase was THE PERFECT size flag for my room.  I mean to get one in Jordan too, but I didn’t- woops.  Imane LOVED carrying the flag around.  She kept on yelling “I’m Moroccan!” “I love Morocco!!” and then she would say that she was lucky that there were only adults outside because she is being embarrassing.  Here’s a pic of little Imilita and her (my) flag.



The medina was BUMPING.  It was really really crowded.  We ran into Zach again and he said that he lost his phone so he took my number again.  Imane was very confused why he wanted my phone number so badly- “you are leaving soon.  What is he going to do with your phone number????” Very concerned.  I ran into Karima, the woman who was helping me find an internship, in the middle of the most crowded part of the medina. Such a “small medina” haha.  I also saw the DVD man, and he remembered me, but was selling workbooks- not DVDS.  I bought two DVDs from his friend though, and got 2 for the price of 1! Go me. THEN when we were walking down Vegetable Street, someone was YELLING in Arabic at us.  I couldn’t understand him and we just kept on walking, but he said something to make Imane turn around, so we did.  She asked if I recognized him and I didn’t.  She said that he said that he knows me and then he asked “HI HOW ARE YOU” in English.  It was so weird- really just because I usually remember people like that, and I honestly had never seen him before.  Weird. We got a lot of good souvenirs that I won’t blog about because they’re a surprise.  The construction in the covered souk is coming along, but probably not as quickly as it should be….



We went home and got to work. We peeled chickpeas for the harira.  It looked easy, but there were SO many- very time consuming, and chick pea juice squirted everywhere.  Everyone in the fam came in at a different point and asked about my santé (health) regarding fasting.  I said that I was fine (and I really was).  I think once you start to eat during the day, your body needs to eat more and more, but because I hadn’t had anything to eat or drink- it didn’t really need anything… if that makes sense? I don’t know, but I was really fiiiiine.  We peeled the chickpeas and then I told Imane that I wanted to go out and get some cake for breakfast, so she came with me.  I thought we we were just going to go to Imane (the baker)’s place, but we walked ALL the way to Le Comedie (in the ville nouvelle)- I was not prepared for this.   We got 4 pieces of cake that had just come out of the oven.  By this time I think it was about 6 pm.  Maybe later.  Sun sets at 7:40.  We were starting to get a liiiittle crazy.  Everyone was rushing around the city to get last minute things for breakfast, and to make it home in time.  Imane and I took a leisurly trip back to the house.  It had to be leisurely because I only brought my Jordanian Jack Rogers to Rabat (totally by accident- I anticipated this happening, and meant to bring more comfortable shoes).  My feet were KILLING me (they're bruised and scabbed right now).  I am very happy that I did not spend 125 USD on them… Anyway- the final streatch walking home after a long day is always the worst (I was imagining walking to the apartment from first ave--- so close, but so far.  I usually call my mom and complain that I can’t do it, but I was with Imane and we were complaining together).  We were so crazy, but made it back home.  Right before we got in Imane said “and now I have to set the tableee”….. I helped with that yesterday, but I honestly didn’t think I could do it today.  We had less than an hour til sunset, but I became a little light headed and HUNGRY.  My lips were also very dry.  I helped a little bit, but I had to pour water on my face and then seriously had to lie down and “rest my eyes”.  The next thing I knew Imane was screatching “CLAIREEEE ITS TIME TO EEEAAAT” and the call to prayer was playing.  I felt bad that I didn’t help and wasn’t at the table RIGHT at the time to dig in, but I was like “oh my god!!” And ran to the table asap- it was funny. 
The food was SO good (much better than the day before- even though it was the same stuff).  I didn’t eat as much, which was interesting.  My stomach filled up quicker than normal, but my “mom” said that is usually what happens.  We rested for longer than the night before, and kept on eating as we relaxed.  It was so nice, and made me miss lounging on the couch at home.  I could have totally called it a night then and there, but Imane said that we were going out as a family.  As we passed the oudaia (home 2.0!!) earlier in the day, I saw a carnival type thing at the water (where I ran last semester~ the Rabat equivalent of the East River).  I was very forceful with Imane in telling her that we had to go to that tonight.  She was hesitant because of Simo, but I told her that I didn’t care and he’s not my brother (I quickly corrected myself) but I can do whatever I want.  Anyway I think she relayed that request to the fam, so they arranged all of us (sans Simo) to go to Timara (where their “country/beach house” is) to go to “La Corniche” which is similar to the Rabat games (carnival) but bigger. 


We piled into the car (I was kind of unsure of where we were going, but again- didn’t care).  I think Timara is between a half hour and an hour away.  We pulled into the carnival, and it was SO crowded!!!!!! Bumper to bumper traffic, people, vespas etc clogging the streets.  It was nuts.  I didn’t think that we would get a parking spot or stay, but alas- we did.  It REALLY reminded me of the Greenport carnival (probably just because it was a carnival), but it was WAY more crowded.  There were only a few rides, but the amount of people that were there made it seem like Six Flags.  I was hands down the only non-Moroccan there.  Of course I have been the only foreigner in places but never as big of a ratio.  It was unreal.  We walked through a tent/craft fair-like place (all junk only for Moroccans) and then we went “to play”.  The rides were only 10 dirham each, and there were no bracelets- I actually didn’t even ask, but I just assumed.  I got a little nervous about the rides because they were pretty serious and I just STUFFED my face with breakfast.  I asked Imane if people get sick on the rides, and she said no, but I will feel sick tomorrow- I said “oh great. On the train to Marrakech” and her face totally changed.  “You’re leaving tomorrow?!?!” “yesss you knew that…” and then the ride started- I felt bad.  Here’s a pic of all of us on that ride- “Fatima never smiles” –Imane


We got tickets for the next ride, and waited.  There was no line, so I just assumed that we were the only ones who wanted to go on- I was WRONG.  The fight to get on the ride was so bad.  Once the ride starts to stop, everyone RUSHES to the ride to claim a seat.  The ones that are “unclaimed” are actually claimed—people say ‘aamr” (taken) because they save the seats for their friends- RUDE.  It took at least three times for the ride to go until we got a seat.  So bad. We split up and finally both got seats.  These two men offered me their seats and then started to talk to Imane (we didn’t take their seats).  Imane told me that she told them that I was married to her brother because they wanted to talk to us- funny.  We had to share our seat on the ride with another girl, and I think she heard Imane's conversation and then started to talk to me VERY quickly in Darija.  I understood probably 2 questions “what’s your name” and “are you scared”.  Imane said that she assumed that I spoke Darija because I was “married to Simo”.  Funny, but sad.  I did a lot of head nodding and then the ride finally started.  Imane had her hands in the air for a lot of the time, and when the ride ended, she realized that she lost a small bracelet that she had been wearing since before we met.  She was very upset (no tears though…).  I told her that we could get new ones tomorrow.  Then the parents called and it was time to go.  Good timing- I was done with the carnival. We piled into the car and Khadija (“mom”) gave us some corn on the cob.  It was actually the WORST corn on the cob I have EVER had in my entire life.  I couldn’t finish it.  I have NO idea how they messed it up so badly, but it was terrrrrrrrrrrriiiiiibbbbllllleeeeeeee.  I feel like they just grilled it on the grill without soaking it in water first?? I have no idea, but it really didn’t even taste like corn lol. Luckily we all split them, and Fatima was willing to eat the rest of my half.  BAD. 
We stopped at the Timara house for a minute.  I was really nervous that it was going to become an event (some aunts/uncles live there) because I was VERY tired, but luckily we just stayed downstairs as Driss checked in upstairs.  They moved the orange couches from Imane and my room to Timara, but they had to change them a little bit because the size of the rooms is different.  They also put the cushions in like black leather frames.  I had to be enthuastic, but I think they could have picked a different style… Thankfully we sat downstairs for a very short time, and then it was back to Rabat for DINNER (~2 am).  Delicious tajine with French fries.  We had THE SWEETEST green melon for dessert.  I couldn’t get enough, and definitely won the dessert eating contest.  BEDTIME- I survived my first day of real Ramadan.  



Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Rabat Ramadan Weekend Day 1: Friday, July 27

I woke up early and had breakfast (you do not have to participate in Ramadan if you're traveling).  I left the house EARLY (8:15- I have never been outside in Imlil that early yet.  It was nice.  I am always happy to be out in the morning, but never enough to do it when I don't HAVE to.  Pretty much everything was closed, but town wasn't dead.  There were people out and about.  One of these people was a woman who works at the Argan co-op by my house.  She was BANGING on a bag of argan nuts with a hammer-like object.  I only made the connection between what I thought was construction work that wakes me up every single morning and the argan lady when I was in the taxi.  If I thought about it at the time, I probably would have asked her something along the lines of "must you do that so early in the morning??" She was lucky that I realized too late. Anyway. I went to the cab stop and asked for a cab to Marrakech, but they said that they would take me to Asni and then I could get a different cab to go to Marrakech from there.  Totally painless trip (except that it was VERY hot- it got hotter as we got to Marrakech aka HELL.  I also had to share the front seat with a Moroccan woman, but it wasn't that bad).   I got to the train station an hour early.... I sat and waited.

My train ride was quite a trip.  The only seats are the ones that are like four seats facing eachother.  People kept on sitting in the other seats but then would get up and leave.  It was weird, but gets weirder.  This one man was very crazy.  He sat across from me and would do EVERYTHING that I did- monkey see monkey do.  If I had my hands above my head he would put his the same way.  If I played snake on my phone, he would take his phone out and play with it.  He was definitely off his rocker, OR maybe just hungry... He asked for my book- actually he DEMANDED IT, so I gave it to him and he started to "read it" upside down.  He kept on making his eyes bigger and pretended to understand it and be very interested.  He obviously had no idea what was going on.  I spent a lot of time thinking about how to get it back.  It was actually pretty interesting because he was turning the pages one by one "backwards" which was actually normal for him.  He didn't even think/maybe he didn't know that we read English books differently...  He was "reading" out loud to himself quietly.  It was so weird.  It was incredibly hot on the train at some points, so I could sympathize with his insanity.  I got the book back when he got up to get his straw hat.  He got it to fan me with, and I grabbed the book as he got out of the seat.  He gave me the "one second" hand motion, but I shook my head and got the book back! He proceeded to sit back down and fan me with his hat.  He also pointed to two melons and asked if I wanted to eat some.  I sad no (all of this was without ANY words-- no Arabic, French, OR English...) then he asked if I smoked- again, no.  Then he did some hand motions that I could not understand, so I smiled politely and went back to my book.  We were both DRIPPING sweat.  I started to miss the mountains.... I noticed a lot of different activity on the train because of Ramadan
-almost everyone fell asleep immediately upon taking their seats on the train
-only mothers with young kids were carrying water bottles, but I realized that this probably was not new because Moroccans don't really drink water anyway...
-there was no snack cart!
-I had to have a little snack on the train and I tried to do it discretely, but I think some people saw me- they didn't seem to mind though.

When I got to Rabat it was like I was gone for just one weekend.  It was a BEAUTIFUL day, and muuuuch cooler than Marrakech.  The Medina seemed a little different to me, but I couldn't put my finger on it.  I didn't really recognize a lot of the stores on Mo V street... there were a lot of Moroccan flags hanging around.  I thought it was for Ramadan, but I realized later that it is the holiday celebrating Mohammad Sadis (the curent King)'s accession of the throne.  I stopped at our cakeball bakery, and Imane (the baker, not my sister) was very surprised to see me.  I didn't want her to cry because she is usually very emotional... she didn't thank god.  She also gave me a lot of cake-even though I said that I didn't want any... There were no cake balls- I think because it is too sunny and the chocolate would melt.

I remembered how to get to my house (obviously), and I said hi to all of my shopkeeper friends on the way. I was SO happy and smiley~~ PoPuLaR.  I also ran into Zach, a girl on my program's Moroccan boyfriend... It was weird and he took my number so we could hang out, but he never called.  :'(

A lot of the same peeps were hanging around the medina, and practically everything was open, which was surprising because it was like 3:30. I thought for sure the city would be dead, but it was very much alive.

I made it to the Mansours.... When I knocked on the door, Imane did her usual "SKHOON!!?!?" (Who is it??) She squealed when I said "Claireeeeee".  It was great being back in the house.  There were some changes though.  They put the flat screen in the main (turquoise) living room on the wall.  It's like a movie theater now- so cool.  They told me that the bedroom (had the orange couches before) became an actual bedroom now, and they put two  two beds in it instead.  They were hosting an Italian girl for three weeks, and "she is always sleeping" according to Imane, so the doors were closed.  A lot of catching up.  Fatima was hard at work in the kitchen, so I helped her and Imane.  They made a special fitr (literally-breakfast: breaking the fast) because I was there.  We had pizza! Imane's job was to cut it.  She was crazy as always and insisted on doing it in the hallway....


 Everyone was pretty much the same, but more jovial than a normal day in the house... I am not sure if this is just my imagination, but I thought that everyone in Rabat seemed happier during summer/ramadan.  People were definitely tanner, and wearing warm weather clothes, but it seemed that they were happier than normal.  I am not sure if that is just because I haven't been there in a while, or what.  It was great though.  Anyway---The last hour of fasting is spent on setting the table-----


It was actually like 3 meals in one.  Normal breakfast, pizza, and a tagine.  with a million side dishes.  U can see in this picture- pain au chocolate, rheef, cake, figs, dates, la vache qui rit, some sort of meat/bologna, olives, cake, pizza, shebekeeya (/animal, right Sara???), sfoof (brown stuff~ sesamie seeds mixed with other things that i dont know what it is... delicious & filling, but quite dry), CHEESE,  and harira.  The kefta tagine didn't fit in the picture.  

Happy Simo minutes before the call to prayer

Everything was set up well before sunset.  We sat at the table and were all anxiously waiting.  Fatima told me I could eat because I wasn't fasting, but yea rite- I would NEVER.  That would be so rude.  I waited just like everyone else.  It was amazing.  Once the call to prayer went sounded- everyone DUG in.  Traditionally, you break the fast with a date and wash it down with some milk.  The call to prayer came faster than I expected, or maybe the fact that everyone jumped right in was startling, but once we started, there was no stopping us.  My "dad" ate two dates, chugged the milk and then went downstairs to go to the mosque and pray... "dedication" as Simo says.  There was no order to the breakfast... You could eat anything that you wanted whenever you wanted, which was daunting for me because I have become used to a very set-in order to my Moroccan meals.  I ate A LOT.  It was awesome.  After you're done you just lounge a little bit, and keep eating because the food is still there. We hung out and watched TV or whatever.  I helped do some dishes, and then lounged some more.  Simo was in and out a lot, but at 10 he was like "are you ready? let's go" so I put on my shoes and we left.  

Classic- I had no idea where we were going, but I was not worried at all.  On the way out of the medina we saw Brahim (the cook for the CCCL).  I REALLY love(d) him and was so glad that I ran into him... He said that he wasn't fasting because his doctor told him not to. He seemed upset and said that he would probably fast the next day regardless of what his doctor said.  

We went into the car and waited for Eyoub! I got front seat because I am the princess.  Eyoub was happy to see me, and we were on our way.  We went to Hay Riad... A very wealthy area in Rabat that I actually had never visited before.  It was SO crowded.  It reminded me a lot of South Beach (as a lot of the wealthier places in Morocco do).  There were a million cafés and they were all open because it was past sunset, but we actually could not get a seat ANYWHERE.  Finally we found one, but it was really bad service because it was so crowded.  We didn't mind though because we were not hungry or parched- just needed a place to hang out.  I got sad when Eyoub asked me what I was going to miss about Morocco.  I honestly haven't thought about it much because I have been spending time thinking about what I miss about America and what I am going to do upon my arrival home in a few weeks.  I said that I hadn't thought about it, but the first thing that came to my mind was the children.  I am definitely going to miss being able to touch any baby that I want to, and the occasional times that parents hand me their kids to hold, or tell them to go and kiss me.  I LOVE that, and it's going to be so weird to go home and not be able to touch any stranger babies.  Also just the people in general.  Saying "salam!" to everyone and smiling as we walk down the street.  I also said that I think that I will only start to realize what I miss once I am not in Morocco anymore... Eyoub's question made me kind of sad/made the weekend bittersweet...

We came home at ~1:30.  Just in time for dinner.  Oi.... We had fava bean and meat tajine.  I was NOT hungry at all, but ate a lot (duh) because it was so good, AND anticipating the next day---I said that I would fast all day, so I wanted to be as full as possible.  We went to bed after dinner (in BEDS, but same locations in the room)... I joked with Imane about it being MY bed and not the Italian girl's (who went to Tangier for the weekend btw, so I had the Mansours allll to myself!).  Imane woke me up at 3 am (right before sunrise) for a last minute yogurt and water chug... I fell back to sleep right away after that.  Great day=Sweet dreams! 

Friday, July 27, 2012

Weekend Update

TGIF!
It is Friday morning, and I didn't blog last night, or the day before (sorry.)   I started to go to the Kasbah every morning this week to stimulate a real internship/"office".  It helped A LOT.  I had another interview with the girls (and Rachid) yesterday, which did not help as much...

I am up and ready to go to RABAT and visit the Mansours (my host family) this weekend  !!! I am so excited.  I am probably going to fast for Ramadan with them tomorrow and get the REAL experience... not the fake one like last week.

I have to take a grand taxi to either Asni (30 mins away) and THEN Marrakech (another 30 mins) OR if I am lucky I will find a very nice cab driver to take me straight to Marrakech.  Then it's on the train (either 11 or 1 o'clock) for 4 hrs and 15 mins to get to Rabat when the sun's still up.  It's going to be weird being there without the SIT peeps (hi Sara), and in summer.  I will report back on Sunday or Monday

Have a good weekend!!!! :)

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

the hood

Just wanted to post some pictures of Imlil and my "spots" so you guys could get a good image of where exactly I am...

Reading area

The river bed- it helps me find my bearings when I am exploring and don't necessarily remember how to get back home

Irrigation 
(also helps me get my bearings)

Different paths off the route are blocked off on different days, so one day an area will be sopping wet and lush- then the next day it will be dry again. 

No idea what this is, but I know WHERE it is.  SO MUCH TRASH

:) 

A street in one of the villages... Irrigation is to the left, but out of the picture 

Donkeys EVERYWHERE 

The school

The medical center-- good to know for when I sprain my ankle, or fall on my face walking around. 

The center of the town.  The river bed runs all the way down to this point, and beyond.  A lot of people come from all over (Marrakech, etc.) to play in the riverbed.  I am not sure why- it is SO cold and dirty.

Basically the only restaurant in town.  Sells only Moroccan cuisine, but it's good. We ate here after the summit.  Imagine walking up to the top after going up to Toubkal and back.  It felt like I was going up another 4,167 meters.

That little wood doorway is the entrance to the other hotel (Dar Imlil~ not the Kasbah).  The riverbed is to the right. 

The turn into town from my house.  

The other side of the turn- TERRIBLE at night.  Not one single light, and that abandoned building is spooky. 

Approaching chez moi... There is a jitte (hikers inn kind of thing) on the left and a good-for-nothing convince store on the left. 

HOME SWEET HOME! 
There are usually goats or cows in the front yard.  You continue on this path to get to the Kasbah.  I will post pictures of that later.