Monday, January 30, 2012

first full day



Today was the first full day here in Rabat. I am very tired, which means it must have been a good day! We woke up at 8:45 (alarms were set to 8:30….. classic!!!) The hotel that we are staying in has a deal with the café next door and we get breakfast tickets to go there in the morning. We were supposed to be in the lobby at 9:30 and we were there at that time, but without breakfast. Moroccan "secular" time veryyy up to speed with "Claire time"(aka showing up 10 mins late is totally fine). Moroccan "religious time" apparently is the complete opposite, and being 10 mins early is actually being late. Thank goodness I don't have to be on that time ever. Anyway we went down to the café at 9:30 and tried to ask for breakfast to-go… Hard request. This girl, Heda, spent the first 8 years of her life in the UAE, so she can speak Arabic well (thank goodness again), but not read or write it. She always lets us try to communicate first, and when we fail (9 times out of 10) she comes in and speaks for us. Fortunately, we were able to get our TWO croissants to go, unfortunately there were no to-go cups for our coffee. We instead went down the street and got fresh-squeezed-before-our-eyes delicious orange juice for only 4 dirham (50 cents)! We walked with the group to the CCCL (Center for Cross Cultural Learning) to begin our day. Our first orientation was about "Fears and Expectations" and we all went around and introduced ourselves and said our fears and expectations. Our Academic Director (the A.D.) said that he would take notes on these fears and address the important ones at the end of the exercise I said (eloquently) that I expected to learn a lot, and was nervous to be dangerously harassed/feel unsafe, particularly walking down the street. He interjected with something like "that's hard to believe knowing that you are from New York City...", which made me feel better i guess. I don't really remember the rest of what people said besides being nervous for the homestay (I am too). I REALLY don't remember what the A.D. had to say addressing our comments because i was realllyyyy nodding off. It was so hard to stay awake. I know it was because of the lack of coffee, but I really think it was also because his voice is incredibly soothing, like a lullaby. We then had a 10 min break, so I went to the roof (2nd pic attached) to stretch facing the sun. It is really nice (65 degrees) outside in the sun, but it is weirdly cold inside. The next talk was about safety/security and group norms, which I felt I had heard all before. One interesting thing was that he told us that personal space does not exist in Morocco. The rest was boring. We had lunch which was delish: a meat that reminded me of the stew from Petit Abeille (no belgian fries tho), lentils, peas, and rice. I mixed it all together and ate it. There were also some cucs and tomatos (decent) on the side, and an orange for dessert. I didn't eat the orange it is sitting next to me as I type. We went back to the conference room to talk about "Engaging in Street Harassment" which was basically discussing the definition of sexual harassment in Morocco. It is different than the United States in the sense that there is no such thing as verbal harassment, but sexual harassment is illegal. Basically if someone were to touch me they would get into a lot of trouble. Some advice they gave was to walk with sunglasses on, listen to your iPod (GREAT for me), and do NOT engage (terrible for me). The iPod thing was curious because I would think that they would want us to use all of our senses to be aware of our surroundings, but I guess they think it is better to pay NO attention to them. The last piece of advice is going to be hard for me. For those of you who know me or have ever walked around campus with me, I am pretty friendly (if I do say so myself). I say hi to everyone I know. It is so tempting to respond "thank you" or even smile to a man who says something to you- My A.D. claims that the things they say to us is their way of seducing women. Whatever they say is usually in French or English, and it's usually flattering... except the one time when someone said "NICE GOGGLES!!!!!" (about my glasses??) or "YOU'RE CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!" (true, but how would heeeee know that?????!). I literally have to bite my tongue to get myself to not respond or smile. When they say "Welcome!" it seems so genuine and friendly, I feel that I need to respond. Anyway this lecture was basically about the sexual harassment of women, and when she opened the floor to questions I asked about kids. The professor who was leading he discussion did not have a lot to say about the street children begging, and they basically just said to walk faster if we are approached? I am excited to learn more about the children, but kind of discouraged by the lack of response from the director. Then we learned about our Arabic studies-- VERY intimidating. We got a syllabus and which said that we are going to be spending 3 hours a day/5 days per week on Arabic. (!!!!) the first week and a half we will be learning Darija- Moroccan Arabic, and then we switch to Modern Standard Arabic. We then took our placement test (written and oral). I was actually very nervous for the test! I did well though, and I was placed in the exact chapter where I left off at Conn. The oral part was very hard because I kept on sneaking in French words and i FORGOT how to say overcrowding (!!!!) There was only one person administering the test, so it took a long time for everyone to go. I started to have a headache when the woman was talking about our Arabic class, and it just continued until I was done with my test. I was an absolute bear. I found my friend Sara who was pretty far towards the end of the line and asked if she wanted to get out and grab a DC or coffee with me before it was her time to go. She agreed and we asked one of the ADs where to go. He drew a map and we were off!! We were in the old Medina (1st pic) which we hadnt really traveled to before. The streets are very narrow and there are literally "hole in the wall" shops everywhere. We went to the place he suggested, but they were only selling big bottles, which was the case with the next three shops as well. The owner of the third shop we went to called someone over who was walking by (we were told that everyone knows [everything about] everyone in the Medina- which is why it would be very disrespectful to our host families to come home late or drunk one night). The guy that the shop owner pulled over spoke perfect English, and after mediating between the shopkeeper and us, he told us that he would bring us to get some coffee. He gave us some advice (that we had heard multiple times before), and told us that he was working for a bank (or investment company?? that I hadn't heard of. I asked how he knew english so well, and he said that it was a long story... I didn't pry. We got to the coffee shop and there were only men inside. We learned today that women usually dont go to the cafes because of social norms, but it is okay if we do because we are not Moroccan. We entered and ordered two qarwahs and an older man excitedly pulled up two chairs to his table. Sara was a little reluctant to sit down, but finally did. The man didn't speak any english besides "welcome welcome" and BIG smiles. The man in the table next to us asked if we spoke French and we nodded, and asked if it was our first language. The person sitting next to him was apparently a Philosophy teacher at a University in Paris, which was cool. Our coffees turned out to be a mint tea and a delicious latte (which I grabbed quickly, but we ended up sharing both) the French men bought us two chocolate croissants, and it was a great excursion. We got nervous about Sara's oral presentation, so we kind of ate quickly, paid ($1.25 each) and said goodbye. On the way back to the CCCL we saw a number of boys playing street hockey and one was SO cute and screamed "WELCOME TO MOROCCO!!!!!!!!!!" I loved it. We went back to the CCCL for some veg time and dinner, and then we were on our way. Back into the streets!! Nothing incredibly exciting happened except we saw one dog that was on a leash, and that man called me crazy... We got gelato that was actually too sweet for me, and then just went back into our rooms. I have been so tired but I have been spending a lot of time in our room on my computer (savoring the wifi while it lasts) catching up with people and writing these LONG posts!!! I think I will have to shorten them, or take notes during the day so they get written quicker. Tomorrow we have a "drop-off exercise" where we take a bus to a random spot in Rabat and have to find our way back to the center. We are also given 20 Dirham (to buy ice cream, or take a cab... haha). Can't wait to see how it goes!!!!

Sunday, January 29, 2012

On Moroccan Soil

HELLO ! I am here... after that crazy plane ride. We got into Casablanca very early in the Moroccan morning, and had to take two trains and travel 90 miles to get to our final destination, Rabat. I think that my travel buddies and I expected it to be a quicker journey, but it all worked out in the end. Some brief (probably won't end up being as brief as I think, knowing my story-telling ability.....) highlights:
-all of our luggage was ready for us as we got to the baggage claim. Mom- I am VERY happy that I went with the rolley bag and not that crazy backpack. I probably would NOT have made it if I had to carry all of that around with me ON MY BACK.
-very easy to read signs and the man at the train ticket counter amused me by conversing in French, and I figured out that the next train was at 09:00 hrs, and would cost 75 "dirham" (less than 9 USD). We exchanged some of our money and sat and waited. We also were able to see the beautiful Moroccan sun rise from where we were waiting.
- The train situation was a little crazy because of all of our bags and the communication disconnect , but I was not as uncomfortable with it as the rest of the girls. We had to change our train, and while we were waiting (for 39 minutes) I was drinking a "Coca Cola Light" (NOT D.C.... more like Coke Zero-yuck) and across the train a Moroccan man got my attention and explained to me how bad "Coca Cola Light" is for me (en français) . We had a little conversation over the tracks (fun fact: the train tracks are level with the ground, so if you realize you are at the wrong track, you can just walk right over! AND no third rail). Our conversation ended with me being like "i know it's bad for me, but I love it a lot" (another fun fact: apparently Moroccan "coca cola light" is not as bad as American diet coke because they don't have access to the same harmful chemicals here or something). Anyway! The conversation ends kind of, and I turn back to my peers. A few moments later I turn back around and see this man lighting up a CIGARETTE!!!!!!!! I just had to say something, so I did. I won the (friendly) argument. I was thinking about Abbey House a lot during the interaction, I think most of my neighbors would be on the opposite side of the tracks as me for this one... His train then came and he went to the window and drew something on the window glass that I could not decipher. As the train pulled away a brunette from Bowdin told me that she was going to buy me some brown hair dye....... ok?
-The train ride was mostly farm land consisting of sheep, goats, and COWS! I did NOT think I would see a cow here, but there were tons! They're all very skinny, and a girl said that any meat that we eat here will be automatically grass-fed/organic bc, like the D.C., Morocco doesn't have access to the same chemicals/growth hormones as we do in the States.
-We took a "Grand Taxi" from the Rabat-Ville train station to our Hotel; Hotel Majestic, and immediately checked in. By this time it was about 6 a.m. NY time, and I knew my mother would be worried sick (seeing as I was supposed to be getting in at ~2 am at the latest) ((no cellphone service at all here- i'm sure we will get that figured out within the next day or so)). I went to the hotel lobby and asked if I could use their computer, and to my surprise, the host told me they had free wi-fi. I signed online, and e-mailed my mom. She responded quickly (as I thought she would) and we talked for a bit.
-I am staying in a hotel room with two other girls who are incredibly nice and seemingly smart. Four of us decided to go out to explore a bit, but really find something to eat (I was STARVING).
-The streets are bustling and I love it. Everyone obviously gave us the once-over because we stuck out like pretty sore thumbs. We didn't get 3 blocks when these two small girls came up to us and speaking in Arabic. I didn't realize what was going on at the time. I thought they were just approaching my friend (who is of middle eastern descent) because they could identify with her. I quickly realized that these girls were "street children" and were begging for money. I was not prepared mentally for my first interaction with these children, and it honestly was kind of scary. They stayed very close to us, and would not leave us alone. They had sandals on and their feet were very dirty. Finally my friend, unaware of exactly what was going on, gave them a few coins, but they STILL followed us. I'm not sure exactly what we did to get them to go away, but I think we might have inadvertenly entered the Medina, an area with more people in much closer quarters (and scattered law enforcement officials) than where we were a few blocks before.
- The medina was absolutely nuts. Totally bustling, and had absolutely EVERYTHING you would ever need. Honestly. There were some weird looking foods, and some really random items. Pigs heads and a man selling panty hose & bandaids were two of the weirdest.
- We went into an European-looking "Delicatessen" place that we thought would be a safe bet, but there were no patrons inside and when we expressed our desire to eat, the man at the desk gave us a weird face. He then made the connection, and directed us to a place down the street and to the left.
-"Grillade Adil" turned out to be the perfect lunch spot. I ordered something that I forget the name of, but it was essentially chicken skewers- deeeeelish, and it came with french fries (very good), gravy (good w/BOTH fries and chicken), and cold (not so good) fried rice. There were so many cute- SO CUTE- children in the restaurant, we were equally mesmerized by each other.
-Now I am back in my hotel and am very tired. I have less than an hour until we are supposed to meet in the lobby to start to become orientated, so I am going to take a 5 (30) min power nap.

I am being very honest when I say that I am very happy here. I AM IN AFRICA!!!!! It's absolutely nuts, but amazing so far. I was really upset Friday and Saturday, but I'm not sure I would be able to force myself to even frown right now if my life depended on it. I know that this will not be the case for every moment of my time here, but I am truly embracing my immediate affection for this country. I really wish that you, whoever you are reading this post, could be here with me to share this amazing opportunity.

Post from plane

Here is a post about my plane ride on Royal Air Maroc. Writing this kept me entertained during the 7 hour flight, so maybe it will entertain you! I hope it doesn't take 7 hrs to read! Haaaa..... I am also posting this without proof reading, so beware.

Rather pleasant to begin. So far so good. I have a window seat sitting next to a Borat look-a-like who has a certain scent to him that I believe he put on once I arrived at my seat and he went immediately to the bathroom. He also snores, but is definitely awake (colby...) i took a Benadryl (only one, despite a close friend of mine's prescription to take 3 or 4.... Rachel...) i think we have been in the air for at least a half hour and I can smell the flight crew preparing to serve us dinner. I am not particularly hungry, nor does this meal smell appetizing, so we will see... There are a few adorable kids on the flight who are walking around the aisles, and I don't even mind the baby who is screaming loudly at the back of the plane. Now That i think about it, i am hungry, so I will try the dinner. Everything is written or spoken in Arabic first and then French and finally English. I like it that was because the same thing is said three different times and each time it is repeated I understand more bits of the announcement, and once the English comes on I check myself.

Post dinner-
Very happy I got dinner it was really delicious. We had the option of fish or chicken (dajej) and I chose dajej. The stewardesses spoke to me in English which was disappointing, but expected I guess... I did say Shukran every time they brought me something, so by the time after dinner tea came around, my stewardess asked if iwanted "shai" which I did. True to form, i took a picture of my dinner which i will attach to this post. The chicken was in a little tin container and had some sort of moussaka (eggplant and zucchini in a tomato sauce) to the left of it. The moussaka was definitely not Nicole Moomjy-grade, but I enjoyed it. It also had mashed potatoes (definitely "from the box".... Ellen...) but I enjoyed them as well. The salad was blah, but we DID get two dinner rolls and some delicious cheddar cheeeese. I warmed up my rolls with the butter packet on top of the chicken tin. My butter melted and thankfully dripped all over my seatbelt and NOT on my jeans or sweatshirt.... I got water bc I want to nap after my meal. My seat buddy put his blanket over his head and is snoring (I presume he is ACTUALLY sleeping at this point, but who knows) next to me. I think I might follow his lead, but use the sleep mask that they provided us with in a cute "Royal Air Maroc" change purse thing. The sleep kit also came with headphones, and socks that I am already wearing.

8:57 Ny time- I haven't tried to nap yet. We just got into a bit of turbulence, so now I am actually going to try to go to sleep.

10:56 NY time- STILL haven't napped!!! I have been playing a lot of solitaire and listening to Drake, Fabolous and most importantly- J.Lo (cause I'm reallllll). I just went to the bathroom for the first time and I found the source of my neighbor's scent. There is a random bottle of cologne by the sink... I guess it's good if u feel the need to freshen up, but it's definitely no Chloé or Stella M. It's also "breakfast" time, so we got our 2nd tray of food. I'm going to save it for when I wake up from this nap that has yet -but is bound to- occur. Breakfast consists of a choc chip muff, a scrumptious looking croissant (said in a French accent), my leftover cream pie/lemon square (unsure of exactly what it is) dessert from dinner, and yogurt. I am looking forward to the croissant, but especially the yogurt. It's the type they give u at cro when u have a CRo-pass, AND the type that they served at HCDC when they ran out of yoplait. Strawberry banana to boot!

11:20 NY time- we just got our debarquement cards, and I am wondering what time the sun rises in Morocco.

11:35 ny time- starting to get a little nervous that not sleeping is going to catch up to me once we land, but I still have a 90 mile train ride to Rabat. Did I mention that there are 6 other girls from my program on my flight? I hope they also will want to nap (and not talk) on the train. Another interesting to note about this plane ride is the woman sitting in the middle aisle who has three seats to herself and is very lucky that I didn't take over two of them. She is an old lady dressed in a long dress and headscarf, but is a total socialite she has been talking to EVERYONE. Other old ladies stop by her seat and sit in one of the extra ones and just chat away. I of course have been eavesdropping, but have not understood anything of importance besides "what is her name?" "MAJDA" which makes me think of the senior from Conn who i wanted to have lunch with before my trip, but never got around to. Woops! She has also had a lengthy conversation (in flawless English) with a rather obnoxious American man. He speaks very loudly and seems ignorant, reminding me to try to positively represent America as best I can throughout my semester. I also just had a bite of the croissant and am not disappointed one bit. Going to finish it right now.

12:23- preparing for landing. I just ate my yogurt with a very cute mini spoon they gave me. I actually only ate half of it bc some spilled on my deembarquement card. I also messed up some of the things that I had to fill out on said card, so I'll prob get another one in the airport. My neighbor and I have become silent friends I think. He pointed to the "date" portion of the card in an effort to ask for the date. He had it as January 2nd (???) and I wanted to correct him in Arabic. To bad it's the 28th and I have no idea how to say twenty-eight in Arabic (ithnane themenia????). Should have actually studied the numbers in the 5 mins that uustath kept us after class to learn them... I knew my excuses would eventually haunt me. "pretty boy swag remix ft. GUCCI mane" just came on my iPod-- I don't want to get off the plane!!!!!

12:34- just kidding. Just landed!!!! Im so ready to get outta dis plane. Al -humdelallah !!!!! Why do people clap after the plane lands?


I attached three pictures. One of me and two of my plane meals (dinner and breakfast) the one of me is so you can see that I am actually genuinely happy/excited and not making this up. ....

Friday, January 27, 2012

TOMORROW

I am leaving tomorrow!! This week I went back to Conn to "visit" and see my friends one last time before I head off. It was a really great stay, and long enough that I think I was able to see everyone that I wanted to. It was also cool to be at Conn while everyone had classes, and I didn't!!! (An undergrad's dream...) I saw a lot of my friends who had just recently come home from being abroad. They were all very jealous that I was just beginning my adventure and that theirs was over. Nobody I spoke with had a terrible time, which was very reassuring. Everyone was very excited for me, which made me become even more excited. Despite all of this excitement, I had a kind of sad train ride home, but I know that going abroad will make me appreciate school even more when I come back for my senior year. I am very anxious, but ready to begin this new journey. My next blog post will most likely be when I am in Morocco- ahhh! TTY min MAGHREB (talk to you from Morocco) :*

Saturday, January 21, 2012

ONE WEEK



Today marks one week until I start my journey. My mom hosted an incredible going away dinner party with all of my aunts uncles and cousins.
We had spaghetti and meatballs, a meal that I am pretty sure I won't be having in Morocco. I am only now beginning to realize how real this trip is, and how much I am going to miss everyone/thing from home. I am going to (try to) attach some photos from the night…