Saturday April 14

            The weather was kind of shaky (cloudy/chilly) so we decided to skip Asilah and go straight to Fes.  This also meant a lot less traveling.  We woke up in the morning and had a big breakfast.  My mom gave my family their gifts, and they were very happy.  It’s interesting because they did not react the same way that Americans would react.  I think my mom expected them to be more “OMG THIS IS AWESOME” over the top, but they were quietly very happy.  Their appreciation for the gifts was manifest in them insisting that we come back for lunch later that day, AND them giving my mom not one, but TWO djlebbas, and a scarf similar to my birthday one.  See the main pic for this post.  I was DYING (on the inside because I had to be respectful. Obviously).  I think my mom actually likes them.  She’s nervous that a sister is going to swipe them from under her nose… I think that my host mom was simply cleaning out her closet, but it is a funny story & good souvenir regardless. 

After the gift exchange we had to go to my new apartment to drop my stuff off.  We left my mom’s bags/what we are bringing on vacay at the home stay house because we agreed to come back for lunch.  We were able to manage all of my stuff well with just the two of us.  It gave me hope for REALLY moving out in a month.  The landlord apparently had only just woken up, so he was going to be an hour late… only in Morocco.  We sat around Renee and Brenda’s apartment for a little, and then our other friends started to move in across the “street”.  Time flew and the landlord finally came.  I think my mom was very happy to see the upstairs apartment.  It is much nicer than downstairs.  My mom took a lot of pictures- see them here, here, and here.  Ellen called while we were organizing which was perfect.  Hereis a pic of me happily talking to Ellen on the phone on the couch in my apartment.  We organized my things (of course my mom does not get out of unpacking and repacking my clothes…even in a foreign country…) I was (as always) VERY grateful for her doing that.  Once we were (un)packed up we explored the medina for a little more and then went back for lunch. 

My host mom’s brother was also joining us for lunch.  We had huge Moroccan salads and chicken tajine with olives for lunch.  I told my mom that it is safe to say that that would probably her best Moroccan meal, she agreed.  SO good.  After lunch it was time to finally get going.  (we initially wanted to take a 1 oclock train, but we settled for the three o’clock.)  We got ready to leave.  I said bye to the fam and we all cried a little bit (even though I know I will be back during ISP).  BIG HUGE AMERICAN hugs all around… I was not going to settle for kisses on the cheek.  I was the saddest saying good-bye to Fatima- I think because she looked VERY sad, and was crying too.  Simo drove us to the train station, and I gave him a big hug good-bye too. 

We got first class tickets to the train.  I have never been on first class before, but I think it’s worth it- especially being with my mom and a lot of luggage.  I was looking forward to a quiet, sleepy train ride, but that was not the case.  “Driss” was one of our car buddies, and it came up (it always does) that I was studying in Rabat.  I was particularly irritable and intolerant of him.  Obviously my mom liked that he said I was great at Arabic, and a good hard-working student, but it was incredibly exhausting.  He made me speak in fusha and lectured me a lot.  We got the whole “Arab Man vs. Muslim Man” spheel.  I have heard it alllll before, and he would NOT stop talking.  I became kind of rude, and he might have finally got the hint (but wasn’t offended).  I don’t know if Mom really understood my frustration, but I told her under my breath and then it became clear.  He was obviously harmless, but I was not in the moooooood.  FINALLY we got to Fes.

I bargained a lot for a petit taxi.  Nobody would take us for under 20 dirham.  I gave in and we went to Bab Boujloud.  I did not know where the riad was, but I told mom to sit tight by a random bank and found it.  We got there and they gave us cookies and tea.  It was great and a relief after this busy day.  The relief continued when we got to our room.  The only room that was available was the “family suite” so we had two HUGE rooms for the both of us.  One had twin beds and the other had a king bed.  The bathroom was nice and just as big.  Mom took the pictures. Mom (finally) showered, and then we left to go get dinner. We asked the guy at the riad where the “Mezzanine” restaurant was.  He was reluctant to tell us (I think because he thought it was unsafe), but it was actually totally close, and not a long walk. 

Mezzanine was very modern, and not crowded.  We ordered white wine, which was delicious.  I got the “chicken club” sandwich.  It was surprisingly good.  It was too much Caesar dressing, but it had three layers of bread and was delicious.  GREAT fries included.  My mom got good olive tapenade.  After dinner we scurried to the Riad (it was drizzling).  We watched a little bit of a movie, but I fell asleep pretty quickly.  I bet you can guess the sleeping arrangements- it was great.